Humans have always relied on food for survival and historians have studied the dietary habits of older civilizations for years. Through their research, they have looked at how food influences culture, global events, trade, social systems, and health. Fascinating stuff. Just look at your life. What type of meal do you have at Christmas? Ostara? A special birthday? Look at the importance we place on sharing that special meal with people we love, whether they be family or friends. How many deep conversations have taken place around the supper table? This is the way it has always been.
I love food. Who doesn’t like to eat? I enjoy learning about food: the culture behind it, what goes into the preparation, and, of course, how it tastes. But, I don’t like everything, that’s for sure. I won’t taste everything either.
Just before we left home for our annual winter getaway to Merida, Yucatan, Mexico, something popped up on my Facebook feed. It immediately piqued my curiosity. It had a name I couldn’t pronounce: Yaaxche. “Restaurante de cocina tradicional yucateca, buscamos acercar los sabores de antaño en nuestra mesa.” (Traditional Yucatecan cuisine restaurant, we seek to bring the flavors of the past to our table.)
Hmmm. Interesting. I added it to my list of things to do in Mérida, not ever thinking I’d get there, as the restaurant is located about 90 minutes out of the city. That’s a long way to go when you don’t have a car.
So, you can imagine my excitement when our wonderful neighbours offered to take us there. We had just spent the better part of the day with them, which included a delicious lunch in a small-town market and fresh mango and beer by the ocean. They said we were close to Halachó, the town where the restaurant is located. “Close” is relative. But, after driving through scattered rain showers (“showers” is also relative!), swarms of parrots, narrow roads, and quaint pueblos, we finally made it. I should mention that the last stretch of road was hobbled by tree roots and rocks. Victor’s driving skills were put to the test, and I’ll never complain about the potholes back home again!
Although it felt like forever, the rough patch was quite short, and suddenly we came to a sign, made a left turn, and y allí estaba, there we were!
It was beginning to get dark when we arrived at Yaaxche, and we were tired, windblown, slightly sunburned, and hungry. But right from the start, it was obvious that Yaaxche was a magical place. It was like entering a whole new world at that left turn. You could see the effort that had gone into the details and preserving the natural environment. We walked a short distance on a clay pathway and entered the main palapa. A Mayan palapa is an open-aired structure covered by a thatched roof of tightly woven dried palm leaves. They are very water resistant, as we would soon discover. Yes, Mother Nature decided to bestow some of its finest on us. The rain came down in torrents. But we were nice and dry. And a special thank-you to the staff who stood by the door opening to sweep the rain out. There would be no flooding that night!
The rain intensified the experience, and it was easy to feel the rhythm of the tropical forest surrounding us. We were transported back in time when life was simpler. Not easier, just simpler. We were surrounded by pottery pieces, baskets, and more, as if we had stepped into someone’s home. The welcoming presence of Mayan ancestors filled the air as we eagerly awaited our meals. The menu was amazing, and the six of us all chose something different. I’m not a food critic, so I won’t go into details. All I will say is that the food all around was fantastic. The presentation was out of this world, adding a special extra touch to the dishes. The dishes were lovingly prepared and cooked over fire and stones, using techniques passed down through the generations. The aroma permeated the rain-soaked air.
Yaaxche sits on land that has been in the chef’s family for decades. It includes space for the dining palapa, an open-air kitchen, washroom (these were beautiful and contemporary), paths to walk on, and a milpa planting field. A young ceiba tree stands proudly at the entrance. Ceiba trees are sacred to the Mayan people, and some are planted with reverence and ritual. There is one such tree in the middle of the Yaaxche garden. I would have loved to explore more, but since it was raining and they did stay open later just for us, I didn’t ask. The chef did come out to meet us and stand for a photo. I was a bit starstruck!
From what I have read, Chef Wilson Alonzo is a man passionate about cooking. That needs to be rephrased. Cooking is what I do. He does so much more than cook. He nurtures, honors and celebrates the food. From picking the freshest ingredients at the local market to making sure everything is plated just perfectly, Chef Wilson’s skill and artistry is indescribable. Apparently he has become somewhat of an ambassador of Mayan cuisine. He is developing a cooking school at Yaaxche and has received several accolades.
Yaaxche is not just a restaurant. It is an experience. When someone tells us something is authentic, I really don’t know. I have nothing to compare it to. But when our neighbours say it is authentic, I listen. After all, they are Mayan. They know.
Yaaxche was by far one of the highlights of our 2026 visit to Merida. It checked off all the boxes and we will talk about it for awhile. ¡Buen provecho!
Here’s a slideshow featuring photos of Yaaxche.
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