The ceiling is watch-your-head low, and thick wooden beams brace the doorways that are cut from stone. The lighting is dim. It is easy to imagine the ancestors sitting on benches, raising a mug of mead, and chomping on lamb shanks. Welcome to Dublin’s Brazen Head Pub.
Yes, we heard many a tune and enjoyed many a Guinness in several pubs during our recent adventure in Ireland, but the Brazen Head experience was by far the best. What made it so special, you ask? I’d be happy to tell you.
Brazen Head claims to be Ireland’s oldest pub. Since it was established in 1198—yes, 1198, that’s not a typo. As we learned from a taxi driver, Robin Hood used to lift a pint or two at Brazen Head when he journeyed over from England back in the day. It is even said that Vikings once frequented the location. The history is astounding! However, some claim that Sean’s Bar, located in Athlone, is the oldest pub in Ireland, dating back to 900AD! Who’s going to bemoan a few centuries here and there? It all comes down to what the original buildings were used for and some licensing contracts. Regardless, Brazen Head is where I was, so Brazen Head wins my vote and my heart!
Brazen Head was originally a hostelry, or traditional coaching inn. The present building was built in 1754 on Bridge Street, the area where the original settlement of Dublin got its name. Next to the pub is the Father Matthew Bridge, which crosses the River Liffey at the spot where the original crossing was located. There is far too much history to recount in this blog, but at one time there were two settlements where Dublin is now situated: Dyflin, the Viking settlement, and Ath Cliath, the Gaelic settlement. The Vikings ruled Dublin for almost three centuries, their rule ending in 1171, so I imagine a few of those Norsemen shared a toast on the Brazen Head grounds. Just imagine wooden platters piled high with fire-roasted meats and vegetables, mead flowing, and stories a plenty! The energy of those days echoes throughout the rooms of the pub, creating a very welcoming, warm, and dare I say, fun ambience. It makes you want to get up and break into a sea shanty…or war cry!
As you sit in one of the rustic rooms enjoying a steaming bowl of seafood chowder, brown soda bread, and of course a pint of Guinness, it is good to acknowledge the historical importance of the building. Back in the 17th century, there was a lot of activity on Bridge Street. Wealthy merchants and the nobility were known to frequent the area for business and pleasure. The Brazen Head has also seen its share of violence. The pub was used as a base to plan the Rising of 1803. Rebel leader Robert Emmet stayed in a room overlooking the main door so he could see the British enemy approach. His plans failed, and he was hanged on a nearby street. It’s said that the hangman was a regular at the pub himself, and rumors are that Robert’s ghost still wanders the pub. Maybe he just wants a pint.
The pub came under fire again during the Easter Rising of 1916 and in the Civil War of 1922. At both times, troops were stationed on the corner outside the pub and drew a lot of fire. If you close your eyes, you can hear those shots ringing out and feel the tension in the air.
Today, the Brazen Head provides an authentic experience for anyone wanting great food, great drink, and great craic. We were fortunate to get into an afternoon of traditional Irish craic, music, and storytelling. The room was packed, standing room only, and the atmosphere was electric. Locals mixed with tourists. The locals knew all the words and sang along. The tourists didn’t know any of the words and still sang along! This is all part of an ancient tradition—informal gatherings to share songs, stories, and friendship. Usually, these sessions took place in kitchens, but in the 20th century, emigrants started introducing the concept into pubs, mainly in London and New York. Ireland quickly jumped on the bandwagon, and now trad music can be heard all over the island and indeed around the world.
We enjoyed a lot of live trad music during our two-week stay on the Emerald Isle. The Brazen Head experience was by far the coziest. I don’t know if it was the storytelling, the music, or the feeling of family that enveloped the music room. Could have been the Guinness! There was even a birthday celebration for 95-year-old Etna, who clapped and sang her way through the entire three-hour program. There were two soloists, one young, one old. There were tears. Laughter. There was a lot of love and the feeling of being part of something much bigger than all the tomfuckery going on in the world. For just three hours, everyone in that crowded room forgot their troubles and just enjoyed each other’s company. And all in an 800-year-old pub. Who would have thought?
If you can’t make it to Ireland, that’s ok. Pull up some YouTube videos, raise a glass, and shout out a resounding sláinte. You’ll feel better. Trust me.
Interesting Reads & Things
https://www.enjoy-irish-culture.com/Irish-Music.html
